The Exmoor Coast has some of the most dramatic cliff scenery in England. The high moors crash into the blue water of the Bristol Channel, producing a series of vertiginous cliffs and, consequent, expansive sea views. Fortunately, the South West Coast Path plots a route over this most challenging of terrain and provides one of the best two day walks in Southern England. Few settlements bother this most rugged coastline and for much of the time the walker is likely to have the path to himself.
Oldgreytravel revisited this walk on a fine Autumn weekend and enjoyed the whole experience. Start in the small village of Porlock Weir, which is best reached by car. Alternatively, there is a regular bus service to nearby Porlock from Minehead, itself connected to Taunton and the mainline railway by bus. From the tiny harbour, the path takes a gentle climb through a ravaged, romantic landscape of arched grottos and turreted lookouts, courtesy of Lord Lovelace, the eccentric husband of the more famous Ada Lovelace, mathematician, early pioneer of the computer and sole, legitimate daughter of the romantic poet, Byron. Soon the path steepens and climbs through dense woods to the tiny C12 church at Culbone – one of the smallest in England and totally divorced from any village or centre of habitation. The churchyard, surrounded by lush vegetation, makes a good refreshment stop.
Another stiff climb out of Culbone Combe brings you to the clii top with extensive views towards Wales. Exmoor ponies dot the landscape and trees are now sparse, replaced by grass, heather and gorse. With the exception of a few steep descents and climbs, the path remains high on the cliff until you finally descend towards Lynmouth, some 13 miles and 5-6 hours walk from your starting point.
Lynmouth is an attractive, but tiny, village gathered around its harbour and probably best known now for the disastrous 1952 flood that roared through the village killing 28 people. Most of the buildings around the harbour have been rebuilt since then. Lynton, on the hill above, is larger and has most of the overnight stay options available to the walker. It can be accessed by the wonderful 1890 cliff railway.
Day 2 starts with a gentle walk through the Valley of the Rocks, a dry valley parallel to the coast, a Victorian tourist hot spot, and still a dramatic novelty on the coast walk. You may well see mountain goats scrambling on the cliffs here. The path then follows a gently sloping road and bridleway before climbing through woods onto the open cliff. The walk now becomes decidedly more challenging as the narrow path clings to the side of the cliff for large parts of the route some 500 feet above the sea below. While quite safe for those taking care in fine weather, one should be cautious about attempting this section in high winds or heavy rain. Anybody without a head for heights should probably avoid this section of the coast path. The reward for those who do is a superb panorama of cliff, moor and sea with Wales clearly visible on the northern horizon.
Much of the walk is along the contour, but there are some strenuous climbs too, including the ascent of Great Hangman, at 1043 feet the highest point on the South West Coast Path. From here, it is downhill to Combe Martin and the end of our walk. It is a rather unpretentious village with the odd distinction of having the longest village High Street in the country. Again, a good 13 mile, 5-6 hour walk. You can either overnight here and return to Porlock Weir the next day or, if your timing works out, take the no 300 bus back to Porlock that day.
