Some 116 years ago, a disgruntled and somewhat restless Methodist minister from the flat lowlands of Lincolnshire led a group of English visitors up the steep winding road from Frutigen to the village of Adelboden. Adelboden, then, was a small Alpine village of 1500 souls, predominantly engaged in the traditional pursuit of agriculture and, until recently, largely inaccessible. The Methodist minister was Henry Simpson Lunn and his small band of intrepid travellers were the very first package ski tourists, the very first of the millions that would transform the Alps from a remote wilderness of poverty and hardship to one of the most developed tourism regions of the world.
The fledgling company founded by Lunn went on to become Lunn Poly, one of the largest travel agents in Britain and a winter sports specialist. Lunn, himself, founded the Public Schools Alpine Sports Club in 1905 and the Alpine Ski Club in 1908. His son, Arnold Lunn, was an Alpine Ski pioneer, devising the form of slalom racing we know today and organizing many international ski races. His son, in turn, was the captain of the British ski team at the 1936 Olympics. It is no understatement to say the Lunn’s were instrumental to the development of skiing as we know it today.
Why Lunn chose Adelboden for his first tour is unclear. It certainly would not have been the most accessible place with no railway and just a long, narrow and winding approach road. It is known that he organized Educational tours for English Church leaders in nearby Grindelwald in the 1890’s and his knowledge of the area may have identified Adelboden as a suitable place for his new experiment. It may simply have been local contacts, available accommodation or other such prosaic matters that led to the final decision. Whatever, it launched Adelboden into the forefront of Alpine skiing and it became a stalwart of British holiday skiers for many years to come.
Oldgreytravel stayed in Adelboden recently for a winter skiing break and was able to experience some of the delights that might have drawn Lunn to the area. Certainly the nearby mountains are lofty and craggy and the modern skiing area large and well-connected, unlike many other Swiss village resorts. The village, now about twice the size of Lunn’s first visit, is compact and picturesque, but not quite the “chocolate box” quality that the brochures would lead you to expect. Being a small remote village, people generally are very friendly and the facilities good. However, there is no nightlife to speak of. Something that presumably did not bother a Methodist minister in the early C20, but leaves some modern visitors feeling a bit short-changed. Switzerland has never been the cheapest country to visit and it is fair to say everything costs more than it would in the neighbouring Alpine regions of France, Italy and Austria. Given the current exchange rate, the relative inaccessibility of Adelboden and the competition from bigger, cheaper resorts elsewhere in the Alps, it is perhaps no surprise that the lure of Adelboden for the British has waned. It now seems to cater predominantly for Swiss and German visitors.
Oldgreytravel enjoyed his time in Adelboden, the weather and snow were perfect and, at the end of the day, this is what makes or breaks a ski holiday. However, the cost was significantly more than you would pay elsewhere, despite taking advantage of a good value half board offer, and I am not sure that the unique qualities of Adelboden justify the extra cost. Still, at least I can say that I have skied in the cradle of Alpine skiing and followed in the footsteps of those very first package tourists that Henry Lunn guided up that mountain road.
Oldgreytravel stayed at the Hotel Bristol in Adelboden on their 5 day midweek half board offer.
