In June 1944, 7500 men of the 29th US Infantry Division embarked at the tiny Trebah beach on the Helford River. Their destination was the fiery hell of Omaha Beach and one of their last views of land would have been the beautiful and tranquil hamlet of Durgan, just downriver from Trebah. This occurred to me as a poignant reminder of the particular contribution of this part of England to the Allied War Effort. Further up the creeks and tributaries of the Helford River, the SOE had been running clandestine boat operations since its formation in the early years of the war, but it was the approach of D Day that brought hundreds of thousands of troops to the West Country, ready for the biggest seaborne invasion in history.
Durgan, itself must be one of the prettiest and most tranquil spots in Cornwall. Located on the lush, Helford River with its myriad creeks and tributaries, it provides a wonderfully relaxing spot for a short stay. The oldgreytravel family were here for their annual trip to Cornwall and our first stay on the sheltered south coast. This is a very different world to the wind swept cliffs of the North Coast or the barren moorlands of Penwith and Bodmin. Here the land tips gently into the calm rivers, or more correctly, rias or drowned valleys, and small boats of all descriptions potter about on the calm waters.
Durgan was once a fishing village and then an estate village for the nearby Glendurgan Estate (now NT). No more than a dozen or so granite-walled, slate-roofed buildings cluster around a tiny river beach. Access by a narrow lane and absence of parking keeps the crowds away, though its position on the South West Coast Path provides a steady stream of walkers passing through. Glendurgan Garden also has direct pedestrian access, allowing Durgan residents to visit the gardens without having to go “around the block.” At night, when the visitors have gone, a haze of peace and quiet settles over the village.
While secluded, there is still plenty to do around Durgan. Helford Passage is a 20 minute walk along the coast path for the foot ferry across to the west bank, the continuation of the Coast Path and the attractions of the Lizard. Helford Passage, itself, has the wonderful Ferry Boat Inn and all manner of small boats for hire. Secluded river beaches dot the coastal path and further around towards Falmouth are the big, sandy beaches of Maenporth and Swanpool. Falmouth itself has a wealth of shopping, eating and drinking opportunities and the impressive National Maritime Museum.
The other major attractions of Cornwall, St ives and the Eden Project are around 1 hours drive. However, for a week and blessed with good weather, the oldgreytravel family were content to stay local and enjoy the simple pleasures of this secluded and peaceful part of the world. Those events of 70 years ago seem all the more poignant given the utter peace and tranquillity of Durgan.
The oldgreytravel family stayed in the beautiful Chy-an-Dour cottage with Cornish Country Cottages.
