Oldgreytravel has a fondness for train journeys and, particularly, those of the narrow gauge variety, the slow train if you like. Most surviving narrow gauge railways, certainly in Europe, tend to be restricted point to point routes that have somehow survived the cuts and economic realities of the modern age. Outside Switzerland, where the geography demands the particular agility that narrow gauge offers, the most extensive network of narrow gauge lines are to be found in northern Spain, the provinces of Euskal Herria, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia in particular.
The survival of these lines owes a lot to Spain’s economic isolation post World War II and its resurgent regional autonomy post Franco. The lines were initially built to move goods, ore and finished product through densely wooded and mountainous terrain to the nearby ports on the north coast of this most industrialized part of Spain. When the economic imperative for the lines vanished, the growing demand for regional autonomy, particularly for the “difficult” Basques, meant that these lines would remain open however uneconomic their operation. While the lines around the metropolitan centres of Bilbao and Santander are busy with commuters and local traffic, the longer distance routes, which stop at every station, are little used. Bus travel, point to point is much quicker and no more expensive than the Feve.
However, the result for the traveller is that there is an excellent network of charming narrow gauge lines threading their way through some of the most beautiful scenery in Spain and connecting some of the most historic and fascinating cities in this most diverse country. While the routes are through beautiful scenery and the stations quaint and original, the rolling stock is now new and air conditioned – evidence of continued investment in the line.
Oldgreytravel started his Feve experience in Hendaye in France, taking the short electric train journey to San Sebastian. From San Sebastian, the route meanders through beautiful, green countryside, wide rias and isolated beaches. This part of the route is now labelled Euskotren, but uses the old Feve route. Be aware, the journey to Bilbao takes twice as long as the bus journey – the girl in the tourist office was shocked that we were taking the train. Approaching Bilbao, the train starts to fill with commuters and shoppers, but for the majority of the journey there are few passengers.
Bilbao Feve station is a standout of glazed tiles and art nouveau detailing. It is worth noting that the feve stations in the main towns are conveniently close to the main line stations that serve central Spain. The only train along the coast though is the Feve.
Away from the towns, progress is slow with innumerable stops and few passengers. You may often find yourself the only one in your carriage. Delays are also not unknown. Between Santander and Llanes, works to the line meant oldgreytravel was guided off the train onto a waiting minibus at one remote stop. I was joined by the other two passengers on the train. The bus then proceeded to stop at every station along the line picking up two other passengers before depositing all five of us at Llanes station, exactly on time.
Oldgreytravel finished his Feve experience in Oviedo, the old capital of Asturias, but the line continues on to Ferrol in Galicia, from where Santiago de Compostela is just a short connection. To travel the entire line from San Sebastian to Ferrol would probably take three days and to do it in comfort and allow for essential sightseeing a week, but what a journey.
Management and operation of Feve has now been taken over by the national rail operator Renfe, but everyone still refers to it as Feve. Tickets cannot be purchase in advance but are available from stations along the route (make sure you have cash) or from the train conductor.
