Salamanca is considered by many to be the most elegant city in Spain. First settled in pre-historic times, its heyday came with the expulsion of the Moors and its establishment as a centre of learning and administration. The university, founded in 1218 and one of the oldest in the world, dominates the town. For four centuries, it was one of the intellectual power houses of Europe. Christopher Columbus came to submit his schemes of exploration for judgement by its professors, the principle of international law was virtually invented here. It is not for nothing that it is called the “Oxford of Spain.”
Like Oxford, its university buildings are distinguished by the use of a unifying building material, in Salamanca’s case, that of the soft, yellow sandstone of the region. The use of this material, along with the elaborate plateresque style of architecture, provided the template for the development of much of the city. Numerous convents, colleges, churches and the two cathedrals form an elegant backdrop to city life, while the Plaza Mayor is, perhaps, the most beautiful square in the world.
However, much to oldgreytravel’s surprise, the standout experience of his recent visit was the tiny Museo Arte Nouveau y Art Deco – Casa Lis, surely another prime candidate for my “Great Small Museums of the World.” Situated just south of the huge Cathedral, the building in which it is housed is completely untypical of Salamanca’s prevailing architectural style. Built in the first decade of the C20, its front façade in brick, stone and iron and glass is a rare example of the “modernist” style incorporating elements of traditional and classical forms within a modern and fluid style. The rear façade, taking advantage of the site’s dramatic change in level, it was built onto part of the old city wall, is a three storey high, piece de resistance of steel and stained glass incorporating many of the motifs of the, then new, art nouveau style.
The building passed through several owners before becoming vacant and derelict in the 1970’s. Rescued by the city authorities, it was sensitively transformed into the current museum of art nouveau and art deco. The permanent collection is based around that of Manuel Andrade, a local antiques dealer and collector. There is a comprehensive and fascinating collection of items, glass, ceramics and paintings, all representing these two most distinctive movements of the early C20. There are particularly fine examples of work by Emile Galle and Lalique. Somewhat bizarrely, the permanent collection also includes what is considered the finest collection of ceramic dolls on public display anywhere, Manuel Andrade being the recognized expert in this field.
The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions, a famous Spanish fashion designer when oldgreytravel visited, and presents concerts, lectures and talks for the good citizens of Salamanca and others. The building, itself, is fascinating and features many stand out art nouveau features including the steel and stained glass south front and the, new, glazed portico to the originally open air central patio. There is also a marvellous café, which allows a close-up inspection of the glazed south façade.
The Museo Arte Nouveau y Arte Deco – Casa Lis is located in in Calle Gibraltar just south of the Cathedral. Check the website for opening times, museocasalis.org
