Oldgreytravel noticed the other day that UNESCO has just enacted Spain’s 50th World Heritage Site on the island of Menorca. I mentioned in earlier posts that such sites can provide a framework for travel and give coherence to an otherwise arbitrary itinerary. By chance, oldgreytravel has recently returned from one such trip visiting four towns around Madrid, all designated as World Heritage Sites. All four towns have significant historic, architectural and cultural identities, but I was more surprised by the differences between them than their similarities. I will explore each of the towns in more detail in later posts but this is how you can structure just such a trip.
Oldgreytravel flew into Madrid and then took the train out of Atocha station to the city of Toledo, some 30 minutes by train. The easiest and quickest transfer from the airport is by express bus direct to Atocha station (5 euros). Atocha station can be confusing with three separate overland termini and the metro line within the same building complex. Allow plenty of time to navigate and to go through the security checks which all mainline Spanish stations require.
Toledo was founded by the Romans, was the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom and became an important centre during the Moorish occupation and Reconquista. Few cities in Spain have such a rich cultural heritage of Christian, Muslim and Jewish influences. Much smaller and quieter than oldgreytravel expected, it provided a gentle introduction to Spanish culture. The old town is a fair walk from the train station but you will be rewarded by one of the best views of Toledo with the Roman bridge in the foreground and the Alcazar and Cathedral beyond.
Returning to Madrid, my onward train to Segovia left from Chamartin Station in the afternoon. With several hours to kill oldgreytravel visited the Reina Sofia Art Gallery directly opposite Atocha station. Entry is free for oldgreys over 65 (with ID) and your entry ticket also allows use of the extensive left luggage facilities at the museum. One tip, access the museum from the entrance to the new Jean Nouvel extension, much shorter queues and the left luggage facility is outside the museum and therefore no need to go in if you don’t want to. There is no left luggage facility at Atocha station.
Such was the richness of art within the Reina Sofia, that oldgreytravel only had time to view one floor and Picasso’s world famous Guernica before catching the overland “Cercanios” to Chamartin (allow 30-45 minutes). Chamartin to Segovia was a mere 35 minutes on the high speed line. The train station at Segovia is some kilometres outside the town but there is an efficient bus service that stops at the edge of the old town beside the aqueduct.
Segovia, not much bigger than Toledo, was nevertheless a much livelier town with numerous late night bars, restaurants and music and cultural offers. Famous for its Roman aqueduct, the town has much more to offer including its huge Cathedral, an imposing Alcazar (castle) and the aforementioned vibrant nightlife. Both Segovia and Toledo are day trip distance from Madrid and can be busy during the day with organized groups of tourists. However, at night the towns take on a much more distinct Iberian culture with locals once again reclaiming their streets. Be prepared for surprisingly little English to be spoken or understood.
The next stop was the much bigger town of Salamanca, the “Oxford” of Spain, with its long established university. Considered by many to be the most elegant town in Spain, there are numerous set piece architectural wonders, none more inspiring than the huge Plaza Mayor. From Segovia, the train takes just over an hour and then a short bus ride will take you to the historic centre.
From Salamanca, a short train journey took oldgreytravel to the walled town of Avila. One of the few medieval towns in Europe to have retained its complete fortified enclosing walls. It is a major draw for tourists and, again, just within day trip range of Madrid. Unlike Segovia and Toledo though, there are few other tourist sites, so the old town returns to its undisturbed slumber in the evening. The old town within the walls is surprisingly compact but retains all the sites of interest. The new town is large and business-like but holds little interest for the visitor. The train station is some distance from the old town so a bus or taxi is recommended. From Avila, oldgreytravel returned to Madrid (1.5 hours by train) completing this loop of historic towns.
Oldgreytravel will post on some of the distinctive highlights of these four historic towns in later posts, but the above itinerary is highly recommended, easily achieved by train (or bus if preferred) and provides a greater range of cultural and heritage experiences than oldgreytravel had anticipated. It is easy to organize oneself, using a railway booking service such as Rail Europe and accommodation booking through booking.com or any of the other similar sites.
