Is this the graveyard with the best view in Surrey? St Martha’s Hill, just outside Guildford, has long been a favourite of oldgreytravel. Its relative accessibility and sheltered tree-lined approach belie the stupendous view that greets you on arrival at the top. It is one of those take your breath away moments. While Surrey, and the North Downs in particular, are full of picturesque scenes, often framed, or partially obscured, by the myriad trees that cover this most heavily-treed County, few offer such a sweeping panorama from such an attractive location as St Martha’s Hill.
The setting is helped by St Martha’s Church itself, sitting in splendid isolation atop the perfectly shaped hump back hill. The church is a handsome composition though many would agree it is its location that sets it apart. There has been a church here since Saxon times and the site is reputed to be the scene of pagan Saxon rituals, including the martyrdom of hundreds of Saxon Christians. It is thought the name is a corruption of St Martyrs, for St Martha certainly had no association with this area. The present edifice has all the appearance of a Norman church, but was largely rebuilt in the mid C19 when the original Norman construction had fallen into almost total disrepair. The church is the parish church of Chilworth, some 500 feet below in the valley to the south. Services, weddings and funerals are still held here and, while the occasional hearse or wedding car is allowed up the sandy track, everybody else has to walk.
Given its unique position, St Martha’s is one of the most prestigious places to be buried in the County and the graveyard contains some important memorials. By the gate at the east end, is a small memorial to the actress Yvonne Arnaud, after whom the Guildford theatre is named. Alongside the long bench on the south wall of the church is a splendid and unusual art nouveau tomb to Irving Bloomingdale, of the famous New York Department Store family. He was killed in a road accident in 1929 and the decision was taken not to return his body to the USA.
Nearby, is the simple stone slab to George Freyburg VC, one of the most important figures in C20 history. Born in 1889, he was one of those indestructible Victorian figures who led a life of reckless adventure – born in New Zealand, he was national champion swimmer, boxer, a volunteer at the outbreak of World War I he was wounded at least 12 times, winning the Victoria Cross and three Distinguished Service Orders while serving at Gallipoli and on the Western front, friend and confidant of Winston Churchill, he was Colonel in Chief of the New Zealand Forces during World War II. He led the calamitous defence of Crete and fought through Africa and Italy, later to be Governor General of New Zealand. He died suddenly in 1963 when one of his war wounds ruptured. His wife, son and extended family are buried alongside him.
Further to the west, a simple but equally poignant military headstone to Sergeant C Jakins, Pilot, died 25 November 1941 age 21. Jakins was a trainee, bomber crewman, when he was killed in an aircrash before even embarking on a combat mission. It is estimated that of the 55,000 RAF bomber crew killed in WWII less than half died due to enemy action, the rest succumbing to collisions, mechanical failure and training accidents. A reminder, if one is ever needed, that wars are one by the sacrifice of the many not the bravery of a few.
St Martha’s Hill is located around 1 mile east of Guildford. It is best approached from the east or west where small car parks are located and there is a well-trodden and leisurely route to the summit. There is a shorter, much steeper and tougher route directly up from Chilworth to the south for those who like the challenge.
