For long one of the poorest and most desolate regions of Spain, the harsh environment and wicked climate forged the men who were to go forward and conquer a Continent. The very name Conquistador tells you everything you need to know about the motives of these men. Flying under the flag of Christendom, they were in fact little more than adventurers, violent and ruthless. Poverty and limited opportunity drove them to take on the most arduous and desperate of tasks and, almost unbelievably, despite their tiny numbers, they succeeded.
Returning to their impoverished Extremadura with the fabulous wealth they had looted, they proceeded to build palaces, churches and mansions in their home towns raising their status from humble to magnificent. By the end of the C16 the principal Conquistador towns of Caceres and Trujillo boasted some of the finest architecture and town planning in Spain. However, as the wealth ebbed away and the harsh reality of life in Extremadura re-imposed itself, the towns subsided to a backwater. There was little investment or wealth in this impoverished region and the towns slumbered, unmolested, for centuries.
The towns that spawned these adventurers are now magnificent reminders of their wealth and ambition. They provide a remarkable showcase of architecture and town planning of the period and are some of the most atmospheric historic sites in Spain. Caceres is the larger and more vibrant town, the regional capital and with a large University. While Caceres has much new development, the walled old town is still perfectly preserved with its many mansions now converted to government offices. The main draw is the completeness of the old town, clustered within the town walls around narrow alleys and tiny squares, the towers of the mansions de-castellated by order of the King to reduce the power of the warring families.
However Trujillo, much smaller and more complete, is perhaps the place that the power and influence of the Conquistadors is most strongly felt. The modern town is barely bigger than that contained within its medieval walls. It is the birthplace of Francisco Pizarro, conqueror of Peru, and, perhaps, one of the most ruthless of this desperate bunch. His contribution is recognized by the fine equestrian statue of him in the Plaza Mayor. The wealth that he and his compatriots extorted from the Inca Empire was lavished on the mansions, palaces and churches that now fill the old town. The town is delightfully compact and day to day life continues throughout the old town with many of the old palaces being converted to hotels or being used for government purposes, including the local school. If you have the opportunity, it is well worth staying overnight as the few tourist coaches that make it this far have departed and the atmospheric nature of the old town is ramped up by the quiet and solitude of the night.
The area is still quite remote (4 hours by train from Madrid to Caceres) and then a 45 minute bus journey to Trujillo. There is also a direct bus from Madrid to Trujillo and Caceres taking 4-5 hours. This has helped to keep tourist visitor numbers down and you are never likely to be too disconcerted by the number of other tourists, particularly if you choose to stay overnight in either of the towns. Oldgreytravel travelled from Madrid and included the Roman hotspot of Merida in his week-long loop of Extremadura’s highlights. Even with the current exchange rate (1.1 euros to pound), the price of accommodation, food and travel, particularly outside Madrid, is very reasonable.
Oldgreytravel stayed at the Hostal Alfonso IX in Caceres (£35 per night) and the Hostal San Miguel in Trujillo (£38 per night). Both central and spotlessly clean. He travelled from Madrid Atocha station to Caceres by train and from Caceres to Trujillo by bus.
