Why Zaragoza, a colleague asked. Well, one reason, it was a stop on my way to the Aragon Pyrennees, but I had also heard good things about its Roman and Moorish past and, also, nobody seems to go there. Two hours by fast train from Barcelona, the contrast could not be more complete. Tourist-ravaged Barcelona was left behind and a quiet, medium-sized provincial city awaited.
Zaragoza has a long history, the Romans were here in a big way and evidence of their stay is contained in four museums centred around the forum, theatre, port and baths. All four sites are linked by one Ruta Romana ticket that allows access to the subterranean sites, many of which have been excavated under the streets and buildings of the modern city. Oldgreys get heavily discounted tickets here and elsewhere in Zaragoza’s many museums.
Besides the Roman ruins, there are a host of small museums, many housed in restored palaces, the Lonja, the spectacular old exchange building, now used for temporary exhibitions, a huge Basilica, impressive but underwhelming, a handsome Cathedral and a pedestrianized town centre of narrow streets and alleys. A Goya Museum (he was born nearby) is under construction. The complete lack of foreign tourists makes the whole town a delight to wander around and enjoy.
However, perhaps, the most significant site in Zaragoza is the Aljaferia, the summer palace of the Banu Hud, one of the many independent Moorish kingdoms at the time. Dating from the mid C11, it pre-dates the Alhambra in Grenada which copied many of its stylistic details. Reconquered by the Christians in 1118, they imposed their own distinctive architecture on the palace, while still retaining the core of the Moorish palace within. Further development in the C16 and C18 added to the layers of history and a recent restoration has left the whole complex in stunning condition. It is now the home of the Aragon Parliament which provides one with a nice sense of continuity, but restricts access at some times.
The Aljaferia was the only site in Zaragoza that necessitated a wait. Tickets were purchased on site with a time slot one hour ahead. No problem, as a nearby café provided a welcome pit stop. At busier times, it may be worth booking in advance. However, for such an important historic attraction, the access was surprisingly easy and, as only a restricted number are allowed inside at any one time (presumably due to the presence of the Aragon parliament and attendant security issues), the experience inside is pleasant and uncrowded. Comparison with the teeming hordes of tourists at the Alhambra in Grenada (where booking 6 months in advance is advised at peak times) is instructive and reflects Zaragoza’s undeserved status as a little visited tourist site. And long may it remain so.
Oldgreytravel stayed at the central and reasonably priced Hotel Don Jaime 54
